But I’ll still be making it at home, and you should, too. ![]() We’re still on the fence about whether we’ll put the sundae on our new menu, secret or no. We don’t have a soft-serve machine at Wursthall, but the toppings work just as well on plain old vanilla ice cream. Just make sure you keep it out of reach: I’d catch myself absent-mindedly crunching down ramekins full of the stuff whenever I worked after hours on writing projects at the restaurant. Incidentally, after you make the streusel, it can be cooled and stored at room temperature. I packed those flavors into a crumbly peanut streusel sweetened with brown sugar and bound with flour and butter. These are roasted peanuts tossed with a hot and numbing mix of chiles, Sichuan peppercorns and spices. For ours, I drew inspiration from one of my favorite products in the Chinese snack aisle (where I spend a good deal of time): Huang Fei Hong-brand spicy crispy peanuts. MSG, though you can leave it out) round out the flavors.Īn ice cream sundae isn’t complete without a crunchy element. Salt, sugar, sesame seeds and a touch of monosodium glutamate (a.k.a. The combination of Sichuan peppercorn and chiles produces the ma-la (numbing hot) flavor that is the backbone of many Sichuan dishes. (We use árbol and ancho chiles that are widely available in California, though we sometimes mix it up with Sichuan chile flakes or Korean gochugaru.) Instead, we infuse the oil with garlic, ginger and spices like numbing and citrusy Sichuan peppercorn, star anise, cumin and fennel, before straining it and pouring it, sizzling-hot, over toasted chiles. You can add chile and ice cream to that list of exceptions - at least when it’s done right.Īfter weeks of experimenting in my restaurant’s prep kitchen, we removed the allium shards from the oil itself. Hot honey on pizza, as commonplace as a peanut butter-and-pickle sandwich these days - even Pizza Hut sold honey-and-Sriracha-topped pies for a while - turned heads when Paul Giannone first drizzled it over the Hellboy pie at his Brooklyn pizzeria Paulie Gee’s in 2010. The legions of Wendy’s diners who dip their French fries in their Frosty can’t all be wrong. Peanut butter on a hamburger? Excellent, as anyone who’s had a guberburger in Missouri could tell you. Generally, if two ingredients sound like they’re going to taste bad together, they’re probably going to taste bad together. (The condiment was declared a must-have for quarantine cooking in The New York Times Magazine this April.) ![]() The Chinese state media reported that Lao Gan Ma had more than $700 million in revenue in 2019.Īrticles about chile crisp, as well as recipes for homemade versions and tips on how to use the jarred sauces, have been popping up on English-language websites for the past decade, especially in the past few years. She is an icon in China, and her chile oil is beloved around the world, particularly among homesick overseas Chinese students. I took note of the jar, which featured a photograph of the company founder, Tao Huabi she started as a street vendor selling noodles and sauce to students near her hometown in the southern Chinese province of Guizhou, before pivoting to bottled sauces in the mid-1990s. (That noodle dish has made an appearance at every baby shower I’ve been to since.) I first became aware of Lao Gan Ma chile crisp at a potluck baby shower in 2016, where a friend brought a bowl of chilled hand-pulled noodles that he tossed with black vinegar, soy sauce, sesame seeds, scallions and a ladleful of the sauce. Things move fast in the age of social media. Throughout the afternoon, we drizzled jarred sauces and iterations of our homemade version over spoonfuls of vanilla ice cream.īy that evening, an early take on our spicy chile crisp sundae was on our secret, word-of-mouth, late-night menu. Within the next hour, I was at a local Chinese supermarket, buying four bottles of Lao Gan Ma Spicy Chili Crisp that I then dropped off at my restaurant, Wursthall, in San Mateo, Calif.īy noon, my sous chef and I were cobbling together our own recipe for a spicy chile condiment, leaning heavily on one that the chef and writer Sohla El-Waylly published on Serious Eats earlier that year. Pacific time, Jenny Gao, the Los Angeles-based chef and founder of the Sichuan condiment company Fly By Jing, posted a photo on Twitter: an advertisement she saw at a shop in Chongqing, China, featuring a towering swirl of soft-serve vanilla ice cream, a slick of crimson-red, debris-studded chile oil rippling down its surface and pooling at the rim of the plastic cup.
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